Bagan
Bagan founded as early as in 849 on the banks of the Ayeyarwaddy
river about 500 km north of Yangon. Bagan was the capital of
today Myanmar, whose area of dominance had roughly the extent of
the present Burmese state. The 10th century archaeological site
is considered one of the richest and most amazing site in Asia,
comparable to the sites of worldwide importance such as
Jerusalem, and Rome etc. Remain virtually un-known. this once
splendid and glorious capital of the First Myanmar Empire, is
now a 42 square km area dotted with thousands of ancient
pagodas, stupas, shrines, ordination halls and monuments. It is one of the richest archaeological site in Southeast Asia with more than 13,000 temples once stood and there are some 2200 monuments still standing and some 2000 in ruins. Time, man and nature, particularly earthquakes, have taken their toll but the most important monuments have been restored to their original grandeur. Some were destroyed by invaders, others by earthquake and decay. Bagan's peak time coincided with Myanmar's architectural peak time in 1044 with King Anawratha's ascension to the throne. Only one year after King Anawratha's conversion to Buddhism in 1056 by a Mon monk, Shin Arahan, he went to war against the Mon town of Thaton to gain possession of holy Buddhist scripts, the Tripitaka. The holy Buddhist scripts were not the only trophies gained from the war the Burmese army took some 30,000 Mons prisoners of war to Bagan, among them numerous craftsmen and artisans, who in following decades not only enriched, but even determined, Bagan's culture. The Pagodas of the following period were almost exclusively built in Mon style. In 1287 hordes of Mongolian horsemen under Kublai Khan conquered Bagan.
The towns, at least the wooden, secular buildings, were mostly burnt down. Soon after, the realm of Bagan disintegrated into many, smaller kingdoms and fiefdoms. In 1975 a strong earthquake damaged and destroyed many smaller temples and even a number of large and massively built temples and pagodas were harmed. Bagan is accessible by air from Yangon, Mandalay or Heho (Taunggyi) in an hour or less, can also be reached by road from Yangon, a distance of around 683 km. From Mandalay and Taunggyi, distances of around 320 km in other cases, travel by road takes approximately 7 hour. From Mandalay the 12-14 hour cruise down the Ayeyarwady is very pleasant and rewarding. Apart from these normal transport there are more luxury cruise service like Road to Mandalay and the RV Pan Daw ply regularly between these two ancient capitals, Mandalay and Bagan.
How to get to Bagan
It takes about one hour and twenty minutes to fly from Yangon to Bagan. There are daily flights to Bagan from Yangon, and regular flights from Mandalay, which take only 20 minutes. By overland, it takes 12 hours from Yangon and 7 hours from Mandalay by Coach. There is a regular train between Bagan and Mandalay too. The newly constructed railway between Mandalay and Bagan was unveiled in September, 1996. Express trains from Yangon to Mandalay stop at Thazi, from where it is accessible to Bagan by a 3-hour drive. There is also a double-decker steamer service between Mandalay and Bagan and the cruises " the Road to Mandalay" operated by E & O Express, RV Pandaw, and Irrawaddy Princess.
The road to Bagan
Although this region is part of the dry zone and the most arid part the country with in-significant annual rainfall, it is fertile enough for rice and other crops. In contrast to other parts of the dry zone, this area has been irrigated since Bagan Anawrahta founded the first Myanmar Empire. Villagers walk along with loads of goods. Small groves of toddy palm trees are present in the near distance, some toddy climbers are climbing them to harvest juice to produce an alcoholic beverage.
As you approach further the surroundings become drier and parched. Water becomes less visible, Htanaung trees now line the road almost exclusively with neem trees as reinforcement in certain places. Typical dry zone crops like maize, chilies, pulses, sesame, onions and groundnuts replace much of the paddy plants seen earlier on the journey. Clouds of dust rise from the bullock cart tracks beside the road. There are some cattle market along the road in an open space with over one hundred cattle and two to three hundred people milling around on the dusty earth floor. Meikhtila - where the Mandalay-Yangon road intersects the Bagan-Taunggyi road. The landscape remains brown and parched, sandy land still sparsely covered with cacti, shrubs and thorny bushes. Eucalyptus and lead trees continue to line the roadside. Htanaung, Neem, Tamarind, Cotton and toddy palm, characteristic dry zone trees are a constant feature. Visitors frequently see a group of women sit under a huge shade some distance from their village, busy spinning cotton. Toddy groves are now a permanent fixture beside the road, larger than those sighted before reaching Meikhtila. Toddy shacks lie amongst the groves, temporary abodes for climbers collecting toddy juice. Cooking Jaggery is major cottage industry.
As you approach Kyaukbadaung the terrain becomes uneven, the road rises and falls slightly, there are a few twists and turns, small sandy reddish earth dunes appear on both sides of the road. Away to the northwest, 10km northeast of Kyaukpadaung, Mt. Popa an extinct volcano, the highest landmark in the central dry zone, rises 1,518 m. Established as National Parks, the Popa Mountain Park is now verdant and green with a rich flora especially of medicinal plants. It is the center for Nat worship in the shrine of the Mahagiri Nats, where pilgrims flock annually for the Festival of Spirits held in the month of Nayon (May / June). The road now heads northwest towards Nyaung Oo, 30 miles away. The road runs through two sandy streambeds, each over 200 feet wide. Low hills, denuded of vegetation lie to the south, with white and told pagodas on their summits. Bagan is just three miles away.
Tharaba GateThe main gate of the eastern wall, only left out of the twelve gates of the wall of the city which king Pyinbya established in 849 AD.
Completed in AD 1091 by King Kyanzittha, the name of this most majestic of temples means endless wisdom and symbolizes the wisdom the Buddha. Designed as a square, there are with four large vestibules entering symmetrically from each side forming a perfect Greek. There are four niches deep in the temple facing the four cardinal compass points each containing a single 31 foot tall standing Buddha statue representing the four previous Buddha's. Two Buddha footprints mounted on pedestals stand on the west porch. This Temple is the "mother of all temples" in Bagan, containing representative works of all the arts, architecture, glazed plaques, woodcarvings, stucco, terra cotta and stone sculptures found in all Myanmar temples.
Thatbyinnyu temple
Over 66 meters high, and built by King Alaungsithu in the middle
of the 12th century, this white stucco building overtops all
other monuments as the highest pagoda on the Bagan plain.
Shwegugyi temple
Standing on the high brick plinth, this temple was built by King
Alaungsithu in 1131 AD. The arch pediments, pilasters, plinth
and cornice molding are decorated with fine stucco carvings,
evident of Myanmar architecture of the early 12th Century.
Gawdawpalin temple
This temple was built by King Narapatisithu during the 12th
century. It is about 60 meters high with a fine view over the
ruins of the Bagan plains and the mighty Ayeyarwaddy River.
Gubyaukgyi temple (Wetkyi-Inn)It is a 13th century temple with a spire resembling the Mahabodhi Temple at Bodh Gaya in India. This temple is known for its wall paintings depicting scenes from the Jatakas (life stories of the Buddha).
Payathonzu Temple
The name Phayathonzu Temple was given because the three pagodas
of the same size, appearance and height existed on the same
plinth. It is adorned with paintings of the 550 Jataka stories
and ten other depictions plus small Thambuddhay figures. The
frescoes and architecture are guessed to be of the late 13th
century.
Mahabodhi
Temple
The Mahabohdi temple, erected during the reign
of Nadaungmya (r. 1211-1234), is modeled after the temple of the
same name in Bodhgaya, India. It is a 140 foot high brick and
whitewashed stucco structure characterized by a large square
pyramidal tower and topped by a conical spire and umbrella.
Built in 1211 AD by King Nadaungmya, the Htilominlo is one of the largest temples of Bagan. It is a double-storied structure rising 50 meters in height. This temple is noted for its fine plaster carvings on the arch pediments, frieze and pilaster.
The Shwezigon Pagoda - Commenced by Anawrahta but completed by his son, King Kyansittha, it is a prototype for later Myanmar pagodas. It is Bagan's biggest and one of the most important pagoda. It also is one of the most venerated pagodas in Myanmar as Myanmar as enshrined Buddha's tooth, collarbone and frontlet bone. From 5 terraces rises the golden bell-shaped stupa providing a lovely illuminated landmark at night. The corners of the terraces are adorned by smaller stupas. A small square temple at each of the 4 sides of the stupa houses a standing bronze Buddha image. There are green glazed plaques depicting scenes from the Jatakas. The pagoda festival is held from late October till early November.
Dhammayazika Pagoda
At first glance looking much like the famous Shwezigon, the
Dhammayazika is unusual because it has pentagonal terraces
instead of the usual square ones. Above the three receding
terraces, which are ornamented with glazed Jataka plaques rises
a bell-shaped dome, which merges directly into a sharply
tapering conical finial. On each of the five sides of the pagoda
there is a small temple. The temples themselves are of the usual
form, square in plan, with a porch for entrance, and surmounted
by terraces and a curvilinear spire.
Standing on the brink of the Ayeyarwaddy River, the Bupaya Pagoda is a conspicuous landmark for travelers along the river. This pagoda with bulbous dome resembling the ''Bu'' or gourd is a favorite spot for visitors to watch the sunset.
Archaeological Museum
The museum run by Archaeological Department is situated near the
Gawdawpalin Temple. It has a collection of more than 2,000 items
including Buddha statues, stucco pieces, terra-cotta cups and
pots. Open daily except Monday and public holidays.
The last pagoda of the Bagan dynasty built by King Narathihapatae (1256-1287). Started building in 1268, and before it was finished, a prophecy arose that "once the pagoda is finished, the Kingdom would be destroyed". The King thus stopped the works for 6 years. He resumed works in 1274.
Ten years
later, he had to run away from Bagan to escape the invading
Mongols.
Shwesandaw Pagoda
King Anawrahta built this graceful stupa. The pagoda bell rises
from two octagonal bases, which top the five square terraces.
The upper terrace of Shwesandaw Pagoda has become a popular
sunset-viewing spot.
Dhammayangyi temple
One of the messive temple of Bagan. Built in 1163 by king Narathu, Dhammanyangyi temple is noted for its fine brickwork, the bricks fitting so close togther that there is hardly any space between ingalazedi.
Sulamani Temple
The Sulamani (occasionally Sulamuni) Guphaya, or Pahto, is one
of Bagan's premier temple attractions. The name itself means
Crowning Jewel or Small Ruby. It was the first and most
important temple of the late period (1170-1300) of Bagan
monument building. It was one of many temples and stupas built
by Narapatisithu. This temple is similar to Htilominlo and the
Gawdawpalin in architecture but with better interior lighting.
It stands beyond the Dhammayangyi Temple. Important features of
the Sulamani include its fine brickwork and use of stone in both
load-bearing areas as well as on vulnerable external corner
elements. The interior was once painted with fine frescoes but
only dim traces can be seen today.
At the southern end of Myinkaba village is the Manuha Temple complex. When in 1057 King Anawrahta returned victorious to Pagan, it was here that the captive King Manuha was brought to live. By 1059 Manuha had built himself this two – storey square white temple and through it conveyed a melancholy message. The three Buddhas are uncomfortably large for their enclosures, thus illustrating his captivity and mental stress. The facial expressions of the two seated images are grim. That of the one reclining Buddha, on the other hand, is smiling and serene. He feces north and is therefore on the
verge of Nirvana and release
from the transitory World.
Nagayon Temple
A portico in the north, paved with green glazed stones and
having niches holding stone reliefs of the Buddha, provides
access to the Nagayon. Within the temple itself, the central
shrine contains a huge standing image of the Buddha. Two smaller
images flank the main one. A corridor, also paved with green
glazed stones, runs around the central shrine. Dim light comes
in through the perforated windows of the outer walls. The walls
of the corridor have niches holding stone sculptures depicting
the Buddhas previous to Gotama, as well as paintings showing
scenes from the Jatakas and the Final Life of Gotama Buddha.
Salay
A town in Magwe Division in Central Myanmar, lying on the east
bank of the Ayeyaerwaddy River is famous for three things; first
it is the birthplace of a reputed Myanmar playwright named U
Ponnya of the late Konbaung Period; secondly the plums of Salei
which are seedless and of good quality and thirdly there is the
largest Buddha Image of Laquered wicker work in Myanmar. The
18-foot high image is now entirely gilt and its headband is
adorned with glass mosaic, it bears the appearance of a solid
metallic work though two or three persons can effortlessly lift
it up.
Said to be the core of an extinct volcano with the height of 1500 meters above sea. Well-known as the oasis of the central Myanmar dry zone. Mt. Popa considered the abode of most powerful Nats (spirit) and the most important Nat worship center and is a major pilgrimage destinations. Mt. Popa hosts two major Natpwe (spirit festival), one in the May/June and other in November / December. Spirit possession and overall drunken ecstasy are still part of the celebration.
Nats (Spirit) 
Although Buddhism has been the established religion in Burma,
spirit worship or animism is also practiced. Ghosts and demons
have never really been seen but that is no reason not to
believe! The Burmese spirit world has thirty-seven Nats, many of
them are the spirits of those heroes who have been killed. There
are Nats of the house, the river, the air and the jungle. Ritual
dancing assisted by drinking a locally made, high alcohol
content spirit, leads to a trance-like state, when contact can
be made with the supernatural. The lady in the yellow dress has
just reached this stage. Offerings to the Nats include fruit, an
arrangement typically of a fresh green coconut and some bananas,
and flowers. Though this is 21st century, people still refer to
various Nats over advantage of being good luck in business,
health and so fourth.
Lies on the western bank of the Ayeyarwady across Bagan. This port city set just south of the Chindwin confluence and commands an agriculturally rich hinterland between the two great rivers. Economically significant and well known for it's first quality tobacco production. From Bagan, which is the most renowned tourist attraction of Myanmar, Pakokku is accessible within about 45 minutes by ferryboat. One can make a tour by local bus which is a fun way of seeing the real life of this busy place and then travel outside the town to the little know archaeological site of Pakhangyi. We see the walls, visit the museum and a spectacular 19th century wood carved monastery. The historic Pontaung and Ponnyar mountain ranges where recent excavation determined of in Pakokku District. It is a gate way to the scenic Mt. Victoria and southern Chin State.
Sameikkon
A delightful village and connected to the world only by river. In colonial times Sameikkon was a wealthy trading post leaving a legacy of a number of splendid merchant's mansions. There is a wonderful network of teak footbridges that connect the village to the local monastery.
Yandabo
A rarely visited small village with no road access to the world. Dependant on the reverie economy this village is famous for the production of terracotta pottery made from river bank mud. We see the pottery making process at various stages. Yandabo is famous in Burmese history as the place where the Treaty of Yandabo was signed in 1855 between the Burmese king and the British. It is now a center of pot production.
